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Re: Microhydrodynamics
Steven Vogel
Thu, 19 Jun 1997 10:41:24 -0600
Yes, the microhydrodynamic world is a bit different from ours. For
instance, turbulence is non-existant, vortices don't persist, and drag
varies with the first power, not the square, of speed.
I (quite immodestly) suggest that the most appropriate entry-level
book, especially if your interests are biological, is one entitled
"Life in Moving Fluids." It has my name on the cover. 2nd edition,
1994 has a lot more than 1st - I learned a lot in the dozen years
between the two. (Both paperbacks, from Princeton U. Press; I can
send a set of instructional exercises if you're sufficiently
compulsive.)
Technical Communication Help Available
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Fri, 20 Jun 1997 12:14:25 -0400
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Heat Pumps
Jason
Fri, 20 Jun 1997 20:56:29 -0500
I am interested in utilizing the "earth's natural temperature" in my
home temperature control. Here are a few thoughts on a way to integrate
this into my current conventional heating/cooling system. I don't want
to replace my entire unit, as it is only 1 year old.
1. Circulate a fluid in small deep holes about 100' deep or so and run
2 fluid pipes (supply return) down them. This isn't new, that's how
geothermal heat pumps work now.
The questions arise when it comes to integrating this into the existing
system, I see 3 ways to do so:
1. For heating/cooling use
Either place a coil (that the pumped fluid flows through) inline with
the supply side of air going into the AC/Furnace as a pre-heater or
cooler.
2. For cooling only use, i'm in Texas so this is 75% of my needs
Use the ground water to cool the air going into the outside condenser
with some sort of coil that all the air is pulled through prior to
entering the outside unit. This would entail building a structure
around the unit with a coil (car radiator possibly) at the only opening.
3. For heating use only
My house is pier & beam so would just running pipes directly under the
floor provide sufficient heat to be beneficial?
1. What is the suggested underground pipe material, I realize PVC
probably has poor thermal properties, but it is so easy to work with.
Would it suffice?
2. Would using sand to fill the hole instead of the dirt pulled out be a
better thermal conductor?
3. Is there really any benefit in cooling the air prior to entering the
outside condenser? If there is, would a much simpler solution be to
just use one of those extremely fine water misters that cools the
surrounding air by like 20 degrees that would be turned on when the unit
did.
4. What is the temperature underground year around?
Please reply by e-mail and if there are suggestions of other NGs,
please let me know.
Thanks for any help, Jason
Re: Mathematical analysis of high viscosity fluid i.e. alvania grease
"Todd Rose"
20 Jun 1997 19:06:36 GMT
Dear John,
I gets much worse than that for polymers. They can be viscoelastic and
shear thinning. I would guess that unless you are flowing pretty fast you
would be okay using a Newtonian analysis. Even if this isn't the case
there is an exact solution for the power law fluid for flow in circular
pipes and in slits. Do you have access to CFD software? I know that
Fluent UNS can model the power law and Bird-Carreau models in addition to
Newtonian laminar and turbulent flow.
For a class project assume the fluid is Newtonian and laminar and use the
loss coefficent type analysis with f = 64/Re (I think it can also be 16
depending on how you define the loss coefficient) and get the loss
coefficients from Crane Technical Report No. 410, Perry's or any one of
several fluids books, with Bird, Stewart and Lightfoot's "Transport
Phenomena," being the best IMHO. Be careful which velocity you use to
calculate them for contractions and expansions.
--
Todd Rose, BSME, MSMS, and MSEM
1996 K2500 Vortec 7400 4.10 loaded GMC Suburban
H.W. Stockman wrote in article
<5nskin$17t@agate.berkeley.edu>...
> John Massey wrote:
> [...]
> > I need to know if high viscosity fluids like grease can be modeled
> > mathematically, and if so how? I need formulas for determining things
like,
> > how much pressure I need to apply to make the grease flow at the
correct
> > rate, what happens to the flow of grease if the channel splits up into
a Y,
> > can I show the flow of the grease graphically etc.
>
> Polymer engineers model the flow of molten plastic
> through dies, and the folks who manufacture fiberglass
> have a similar problem. In some cases, the fluid is
> assumed to be newtonian; in others, a more complicated
> viscosity-shear dependence is assumed.
>
>
Re: Ranque/Hilsch vortex tube
willisat@wcodot.com (Willis Eschenbach)
Sat, 21 Jun 1997 11:50:17 -0700
Look in the Scientific American book "Projects for the Amateur Scientist"
(or something like that.) Published in the fifties, it has plans that i've
used for building a vortex tube.
Also, a company called "Vortac" makes them commercially.
Best of luck,
w.
In article <5obqm8$d98@bubba.NMSU.Edu>, K. PIERRE wrote:
> I have been trying to acquire information regarding the vortex generator
> in a vortex tube for my senior design project, with little luck. I am
> more interested in the helical generator than the tangential generator.
> Anyone have any ideas where I can get information regarding this? I need
> to know how to calculate the parameters involved in the design of the
> tube. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me. I will check this
> newsgroup, and you can email me as well at klapierr@nmsu.edu.
> Kevin LaPierre
--
E-Mail address, spelled out to block spam, is willis at wco dot com.
Re: Microhydrodynamics
"Todd Rose"
22 Jun 1997 02:10:12 GMT
Dear Joshua,
Professor Sangtea Kim at
http://www.engr.wisc.edu/centers/rrc/faculty/kim_sangtae0X.html wrote a
book on the topic: Kim, S. and S.J. Karrila, Microhydrodynamics: Principles
And Selected Applications, Butterworth-Heineman, Boston (1991). The table
of contents is listed at : http://www.cae.wisc.edu/~kim/mhdidx.html You
can find some more links at:
http://www.engr.wisc.edu/centers/rrc/books.html
I think it is just a matter of scale as long as you have more than about 60
"molecules" thickness. Kim would know more since that is something I
fuzzily remember from his course on the topic.
--
Todd Rose, BSME, MSMS, MSEM and if I would only finish my dissertation ...
Joshua Downer wrote in article
<33AA093B.79B9@auckland.ac.nz>...
> I am currently investigating a biological system,
> in particular, the microhydrodynamics. I'm not
> sure though, is there any special consideration
> that needs to be taken when dealing with micro-
> hydrodynamics? Is it only a question of scale?
>
> If anyone knows of any references or information
> it would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Josh
>
Re: Heat Pumps
jbassett@tyler.net (James Bassett)
Sun, 22 Jun 1997 08:07:56 GMT
On Fri, 20 Jun 1997 20:56:29 -0500, Jason
wrote:
>I am interested in utilizing the "earth's natural temperature" in my
>home temperature control. Here are a few thoughts on a way to integrate
>this into my current conventional heating/cooling system. I don't want
>to replace my entire unit, as it is only 1 year old.
>
>1. Circulate a fluid in small deep holes about 100' deep or so and run
>2 fluid pipes (supply return) down them. This isn't new, that's how
>geothermal heat pumps work now.
>
> The questions arise when it comes to integrating this into the existing
>system, I see 3 ways to do so:
>
>1. For heating/cooling use
> Either place a coil (that the pumped fluid flows through) inline with
>the supply side of air going into the AC/Furnace as a pre-heater or
>cooler.
>
>2. For cooling only use, i'm in Texas so this is 75% of my needs
> Use the ground water to cool the air going into the outside condenser
>with some sort of coil that all the air is pulled through prior to
>entering the outside unit. This would entail building a structure
>around the unit with a coil (car radiator possibly) at the only opening.
>
>3. For heating use only
> My house is pier & beam so would just running pipes directly under the
>floor provide sufficient heat to be beneficial?
>
>
>1. What is the suggested underground pipe material, I realize PVC
>probably has poor thermal properties, but it is so easy to work with.
>Would it suffice?
>2. Would using sand to fill the hole instead of the dirt pulled out be a
>better thermal conductor?
>3. Is there really any benefit in cooling the air prior to entering the
>outside condenser? If there is, would a much simpler solution be to
>just use one of those extremely fine water misters that cools the
>surrounding air by like 20 degrees that would be turned on when the unit
>did.
>4. What is the temperature underground year around?
>
>
>
>Please reply by e-mail and if there are suggestions of other NGs,
>please let me know.
>
>Thanks for any help, Jason
Hi,
I am also in Texas (N,E), I am going another way with mine. I have
3-35' wells in my side yard with a closed loop system hooked in
series. The bottom 20' of each side of each well is copper for
thermal transfer. The rest is PVC to prevent heat pickup from the
surface. I have recorded 70 deg water on 100+ deg days in august and
68 deg water on -32 deg days in february. My intention is to add a
water condenser in line with the outside air condenser. ($160. at
Johnstone supply) On 90+ deg days the air condenser will cool the
freon from 150 deg to 90+ deg. Then the water will bring it on down
to near 70 deg. I will put a thermostat on the freon out line of the
water condenser to turn the pump off if the freon gets below 70 deg.
I would like to, as I can afford it, put another water condenser on
the suction line of the compressor so that in the winter I could
superheat the gas going in with water from the wells to help it out in
heat pump mode. I am also thinking about putting one on the high side
of the compressor to heat my water (this would need to be a double
wall one).
Of course to do any of this, you need a recovery machine and a freon
license.
good luck
jb
Re: Heat Pumps
"Randy Shannon"
23 Jun 1997 21:02:57 GMT
I have built 45 Geothermal heat pumps, while working for a design build
contractor. The only system that we found to work consistantly is to use
water wells. In Washington State the water tempature is around 50 year
round. The systems that were installed prior to my employment at this
company used ground loops and had problems. The gound has a low termal
condutivity when dry. Tricklers were tried but in a heating situation the
ground just froze. By pumping the water from one well through the system
and down another you use the mass of the soil and rock between.
DO NOT USE A CAR RADIATOR. It has heavy metals and can pollute the gound
water.
James Bassett wrote in article
<33add38d.18018420@news.tyler.net>...
> On Fri, 20 Jun 1997 20:56:29 -0500, Jason
> wrote:
>
> >I am interested in utilizing the "earth's natural temperature" in my
> >home temperature control. Here are a few thoughts on a way to integrate
> >this into my current conventional heating/cooling system. I don't want
> >to replace my entire unit, as it is only 1 year old.
> >
> >1. Circulate a fluid in small deep holes about 100' deep or so and run
> >2 fluid pipes (supply return) down them. This isn't new, that's how
> >geothermal heat pumps work now.
> >
> > The questions arise when it comes to integrating this into the existing
> >system, I see 3 ways to do so:
> >
> >1. For heating/cooling use
> > Either place a coil (that the pumped fluid flows through) inline with
> >the supply side of air going into the AC/Furnace as a pre-heater or
> >cooler.
> >
> >2. For cooling only use, i'm in Texas so this is 75% of my needs
> > Use the ground water to cool the air going into the outside condenser
> >with some sort of coil that all the air is pulled through prior to
> >entering the outside unit. This would entail building a structure
> >around the unit with a coil (car radiator possibly) at the only opening.
> >
> >3. For heating use only
> > My house is pier & beam so would just running pipes directly under the
> >floor provide sufficient heat to be beneficial?
> >
> >
> >1. What is the suggested underground pipe material, I realize PVC
> >probably has poor thermal properties, but it is so easy to work with.
> >Would it suffice?
> >2. Would using sand to fill the hole instead of the dirt pulled out be a
> >better thermal conductor?
> >3. Is there really any benefit in cooling the air prior to entering the
> >outside condenser? If there is, would a much simpler solution be to
> >just use one of those extremely fine water misters that cools the
> >surrounding air by like 20 degrees that would be turned on when the unit
> >did.
> >4. What is the temperature underground year around?
> >
> >
> >
> >Please reply by e-mail and if there are suggestions of other NGs,
> >please let me know.
> >
> >Thanks for any help, Jason
>
>
> Hi,
> I am also in Texas (N,E), I am going another way with mine. I have
> 3-35' wells in my side yard with a closed loop system hooked in
> series. The bottom 20' of each side of each well is copper for
> thermal transfer. The rest is PVC to prevent heat pickup from the
> surface. I have recorded 70 deg water on 100+ deg days in august and
> 68 deg water on -32 deg days in february. My intention is to add a
> water condenser in line with the outside air condenser. ($160. at
> Johnstone supply) On 90+ deg days the air condenser will cool the
> freon from 150 deg to 90+ deg. Then the water will bring it on down
> to near 70 deg. I will put a thermostat on the freon out line of the
> water condenser to turn the pump off if the freon gets below 70 deg.
> I would like to, as I can afford it, put another water condenser on
> the suction line of the compressor so that in the winter I could
> superheat the gas going in with water from the wells to help it out in
> heat pump mode. I am also thinking about putting one on the high side
> of the compressor to heat my water (this would need to be a double
> wall one).
> Of course to do any of this, you need a recovery machine and a freon
> license.
> good luck
> jb
>
>
